Ever since my friend Tania told me about her obsession with Welsh rarebit, it’s become an obsession of mine as well. If I see it on the menu I will always order it.

For those who did not grow up in the UK, Welsh rarebit is a cheesy sauce that is spread on top of bread and then toasted. There are a lot of variations so ordering it at different places means you’re going to get a different take on it each time. Generally it consists of: beer (an ale), mustard, Worcestershire sauce, and aged cheddar cheese. Sometimes it has cayenne pepper and sometimes paprika. It’s also sometimes served, topped with sliced tomato.

I was at St. John in Clerkenwell recently and of course they had Welsh rarebit and of course I ordered it. I have to say, considering I am amazed by everything I eat there, I was underwhelmed by it. The cheese was too nutty. I actually am not sure it was cheddar. I’m more a fan when it’s made with a strong aged cheddar. That and the bread it was served on was too soft and it just didn’t really hold up to the sauce.

Nevertheless, even an underwhelming Welsh rarebit is a good Welsh rarebit.

Braised ox heart from St. John. Tender and rich, it still managed to not overpower.

The perfectly cooked and simply seasoned middlewhite from St. John. I could not get over how the flavour just seemed like it was infused through the entire piece of meat, yet was still so subtle. It was also unbelievably moist.

The St. John Bordeaux. Rich, complex and easy to drink. Compliments the food perfectly.

St. John Restaurant in Clerkenwell is one of those places that when you mention it to foodies, it brings a glimmer to their eye. Foodies love this place and they can talk about it ad nauseum. Anthony Bourdain placed it as number one on his list of 13 Places to Eat Before You Die. It’s number 14 on Restaurant Magazine’s 50 World’s Best Restaurants.

That’s a lot of hype.

I’ve been to St. John on more than one occasion and I do have to admit. It more than lives up to its reputation.

Why do I love St. John?

• I’m from Laos and we use pretty much every part of the animal in our cooking, so nose to tail eating for me is a way of life, yet there are few opportunities for me to indulge.
• Subtle yet memorable flavours. Whether it’s middlewhite or grouse, the flavours are kept simple to let the true essence of the food shine through.
• Unbelievably fresh ingredients. The menu moves fluidly with whatever’s available and in season.
• The roasted bone marrow is probably one of the best things I have ever put into my mouth.
• For how good the food is, this prices are more than affordable.
• By far the best proprietary house wines in town. It’s one thing to have your wine dealer find your vintages, it’s another to make your own.